Not sure if everyone else knows this already and I’m the last one but when I mounted these two scopes, after I used the two magnet method, I verified the scopes were in fact 100% vertical (as opposed to canted) using the flashlight method. If you don’t know what that is, you put your rifle pointed away from a wall. The rifle should be perpendicular to the wall/door. Make sure the rifle itself is level (don’t use the scope to sit a level on). Take a plumb line and hang it on the wall. I just used some 550 cord and a pair of rings. The effect is that the cord will be completely vertical. Next take a flashlight and shine it from the front of the scope through to the back and then onto the wall. The reticle will display on the wall. Move the plumb line over until it hangs so that the top of the vertical reticle shadow is touching the line. Now look at the bottom part of the reticle. If the scope is mounted properly, the plum b line will be covering the vertical crosshair. This makes your sighting in much easier. And of course your hits, especially at longer distances.
Allen’s joined the scout rifle squad. He’ll no doubt lay waste to the deer population all over the Midwest with that thing. How about working up a full kydex scabbard for that thing?
Expat, do you have a new link to "Secret of The Universe #4495" video? The old one is no longer available.
I do not. I actually went back to see if I could jog my memory of what that video even was but I can't remember now.
A few accurizing tips for GSR owners. Check your barrel free float, I was able to slide two one- dollar bills down to the action =good. (1 bill is probably good enough) Loctite the rail, It will work it's way loose. I've read that even with the blue it will loosen up. I went with red. Torque the action screw to 90 in/lb per manual. Torque rear trigger guard screw to 10 in/lb, per manual. My GSR groups opened up to over 2" with my usual loads, I could not tell if my scope, rings or rail was loose. I did all of the above (hat tip to the scout rifle forum) and now she's shooting 1" groups or less if I do my part. I picked up a Wheeler Digital Fat Wrench off Amazon. The action screw is 3/16" allen, it doesn't come with the torque wrench. So I picked up a 1/4" drive socket adapter for 1/4" , 1/4" drive deep 3/16" and a 3/16" allen wrench. I cut the allen wrench down to 1" and JB welded the 1"x 3/16" stub into the socket. The Fat Wrench goes from 15-100 in/lb, so I just watched the digital display for the 10 in/lb. for the rear trigger guard screw. I hope this might help, Happy shooting.
A note of caution....I have 400-500 rds thru my GSR. I've done good on barrel maintenance, but hadn't taken the bolt apart. I started getting offset, light primer strikes. I cleaned the bolt and everything seems to be back in working order. If your launching a lot of lead down range, a full strip down may be required before hunting season starts.
My GSR dropped it's first elk, 208 yds, Federal 168gr Nosler Accubond. Full pass through. She made a small circle and went down.
Good job! My GSR seems to really prefer the 168gr Accubond in my handloads shooting them as tight as SMKs. The 150gr shoots almost as well too.
Thanks guys, the glass is Leupold VXR SCOUT 1.5-5X33 Firedot. This was my first time using a polymer tipped bullet on game, I've always been a fan of the Nosler 180 Partitions for elk(like I'm some great expert on elk, this makes #3). I like Sierra 165 Gamekings for deer and antelope.
