So can you get an edge on a scythe with a puck or do you need the propeller style stone? Just curious.
You'd want a scythe stone, whether the canoe-shaped European sort or the oval-sectioned bar American sort. A puck is not well-suited to forward-curving edges. Additionally, if you're dealing with a vintage blade that you're trying to get back in shape, I'd suggest one of these specially-formulated grinding points. It'll make the job much quicker, since the bevel will need resetting back to 7-9° per side. The visual bevel width should be roughly 1/4" wide on both sides and either flat or hollow (if using a wet grinder.)
Follow up question for @FortyTwoBlades which stone would you recommend from your site? Any good videos for technique?
I recommend a one-two punch of the Bull Thistle and Arctic Fox scythe stones. Honing starts at 8 minutes here:
Thank you, I will watch the video. I think I’ll start with just one stone as I won’t use them very often and eventually get the other. Which should I start with? Also thank you for the information!
On the attic fox I saw the oblong stone but the bull thistle you have the oblong and the rectangular “American” stone any difference? I’m 100% new to the scythe game lol
You'll be using a hone frequently, but if going with only one, I'd suggest the Bull Thistle and as a beginner you may find it easiest to use the American type since you don't have to roll your wrist to keep a consistent angle.
That and also keep it from abrading your pocket or whatever. It keeps the stone handy for the frequent honing that goes hand in hand with the work, keeps it wet, and keeps it clean. You can make your own fairly easily, though, either from wood or from a plastic bottle.
