Thanks for your response. You’re probably right. I didn’t think of the laser etch. You likely won’t be able to tell by the photo but upon further inspection, it may not be painted. I’m still a little unsure, but I think I might give it a go tomorrow and see what happens. It’s only metal right? [IMG/]https://imgur.com/a/i11SzXF[/IMG]
What’s the rationale for doing multiple one hour sessions? Is there a compelling reason not to just let it sit for 3 or 4 hours? (Other than the obvious, checking to see if the etch is deep enough)
Your LS is definitely powder coated and can be etched. The stuff I use works pretty quickly so I like to check mine every 15 to 20 minutes. I keep a dipping bucket of water and a cheap soft toothbrush handy. After a dip to get the acid off I give the area I'm etching a quick scrub. Then blot dry and see how I like it. When I'm done I like to hit the etched areas with some Birchwood Casey gun bluing solution. This just darkens it up and evens it out. Sometimes my logo etches turn out kinda "blotchy" for lack of a better word. Then oil it down and put it away (or beat the brakes off of it ).
Well, I have been working on this for a few days. I have etched both sides multiple times, like five or six times. I have tried one hour increments 2 hour increments and three hour increments. I even forgot yesterday and left it on overnight, for like 12 hours. It just doesn’t seem to be working. I scrubbed it all down well with soap and a toothbrush. I scrubbed in between sessions. I dried everything well....Do I have the right enchant? I’m not convinced that the newer ones don’t already have some kind of paint or sealant on the logo. One side looks darker but the logo has only changed in a few spots. I could try to blue it now but I dunno if the blue will stick either. FYI: the silver glitter is nail polish over the edge. https://imgur.com/gallery/c1xLYNj
I use the same exact PCB solution. I think you're leaving it on for waaaay too long. I see your logic, but it's not a dye it's an oxidizing agent. I've always done short increments and then rinse and reapply. I think getting fresh acid on it repeatedly will increase the oxidation. That stuff is extremely reactive. The more it interacts with metal, the weaker it gets. Also oiling when you're done will make it more dramatic, as will a gun bluing solution (the gun blue pens are great for these jobs too). But if you use a bluing agent, do it before oiling. I don't think they're coating the logos either. I bought and etched a new Junglas-II just a few months ago. Sorry to hear about your frustrations. If it's worth anything, I've really boogered up my share of blades tinkering with these little projects. Part of the fun is learning IMO.
That is the exact solution I have always used with great results. I’m not sure what could be going wrong. That pretty unusual.
So I'm new to this etching process. I am in the middle of my 8th or 9th (I lost count) 1 hour sessions on the skull logo side of my ESEE 5. It seems to be a slow but surely moving process. My question is, how, and what did you use, to get that "paint" into the etched part of the logo?