Knife Steels

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Slade, Nov 16, 2016.

  1. Slade

    Slade Member

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    Steel probably doesn't matter as much as the common sentiments toward it would indicate, but there are some differences and some preferences. I'm curious about what everyone thinks about this. There are a ton of steels I respect. A few I don't care for, and at least one that doesn't interest me in the slightest.

    So who has a standout favorite steel/steels. What steel is out there that you hate to own? and why?

    I hate that kitchen cutlery is so commonly made out of trash steel that most would not even consider getting on a general use fixed blade or folder. I also have developed a disrespect for VG-10. I hate how easily it rolls when it contacts anything with a little hardness/density to it. Have I just had bad luck with mine or are other people seeing this also?
     
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  2. 91bravo

    91bravo Guest

    I'm not a fan of vg10 either. It doesn't hold an edge very long at all. My favorite steel so far is probably s110v and s90v for the pure edge holding capabilities. HAP 40, ZDP189, M4 and s35vn would get honorable mentions in my book. But in my experience with knife steels, s90v and s110 definitely holds its sharpness longer in between sharpenings than any other I've used.
     
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  3. Slade

    Slade Member

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    I was meaning to ask you about HAP40 actually. What kind of DPS can it handle and how would you describe its properties? Is it brittle and high HRC like ZDP-189 with a tendency toward chipping if the edge geometry gets to thin? Non-stain resistant and super tough even at thin geometry like M4? S35VN has always seemed like a smoother grained softer and easier to sharpen version of S30V that still has an acceptable amount of edge retention. Like an S30V headed toward a M390/CTS-204P kind of behavior.
     
  4. 91bravo

    91bravo Guest

    The HAP 40 steels I've sharpened were tougher to sharpen than Superblue, but were tough enough to cut through thin copper wiring without chipping or rolling. I sharpen naturally around 15-17 degrees depending on the height of the blade. I prefer a steel that rolls instead of chips. S110v has a tendency to chip when taken down too thin, so I don't put a crazy thin edge on it. I save the super thin edges for carbon steels which pretty much roll when introduced to something hard.
     
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  5. Expat

    Expat Expat™ Knives Staff Member

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    I'm not a steel nerd, I only know about two different kinds: sharp and dull.

    I prefer sharp.
     
  6. The Warrior

    The Warrior Member

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    Pretty much sums it up for me.
     
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  7. ManOfSteel

    ManOfSteel Member

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    I'm a HUGE fan of 3V and when Peter's uses the heat treat that they and Nathan Carothers came up with I love it even more (Delta 3V). For a folder or kitchen knife I prefer S35VN as it's a true stainless, holds an edge just fine, especially at higher rockwell, without being a total bear to sharpen and it's plenty tough for real world use. I also like this SR101 stuff that Busse puts out. It's not stainless or near stainless but it takes s great edge and seems to hold it pretty well. It is also made to take a beating. At the end of the day there is nothing I'd take overly properly treated 3V. All of my fixed blades except for 1 (which is S35VN) are D3V and I now have 2 SYKCO's in SR101.
     
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  8. Slade

    Slade Member

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    For me SR101 is indistinguishable from ESEE 1095.
     
  9. Slade

    Slade Member

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    Oh, lets not forget the old D2, A2, O1 conversation. A2 is my preference. Easy to work with, pretty much bomb proof for toughness. I'll take those with the lack of stainless. It's not the least stainless steel out there. O1 is solid, very similar to A2 for me. A hair harder to sharpen, seemingly a touch less tough and slightly more prone to rusting. D2 may have some stainless properties and it will eventually take a great edge, but it's a PITA to sharpen in a way the other two are not and I don't think it's as tough as either.
     
  10. CWB

    CWB Member

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    S35VN for me. too as hell, ok to sharpen and rust resistant. Fiddlebacks production model has it down!
     
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  11. ManOfSteel

    ManOfSteel Member

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    I haven't used it too much but I can agree that it certainly takes a nasty edge like Rowen's 1095 does.
     
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  12. Paycheck

    Paycheck Member

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    I like steels depending on edge geometry and applications. Some steels are tough and hold a great edge (SR101, CPM-3V, D2, O1, A2, etc.), but they are often a pain to sharpen, so I hate when companies make "sharpened prybars" out of them. I think Busse knives are way overbuilt for how tough SR101 is, and don't get me started on that "Ultimate Survival Tips" knife.
    My neck knife is a modded BRK Ultralight Bushcrafter, and it's a 3/32" CPM-3V stock. That little baby can rock; that, IMO, is a steel used correctly.
     
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  13. koolaidnd

    koolaidnd Member

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    I like 1095 and O1 for carbon and S35vn and S30V for stainless. They have always done well for me. S35vn on my Spyderco native 5 is my favorite. Perfect blend of properties.

    I'm not a fan of Elmax and D2. I have trouble getting them as sharp as I like. My only knife with D2 is my Benchmade Adamas 275, which I really like. Sharpening it sucks though. My experience with elmax is all on ZT knives. It was a pain for me to sharpen and didn't hold an edge like it was advertised too.
     
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  14. Benson X

    Benson X Member

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    My Favorites (in order) - I am not a sharpening master by any stretch, but I know what works and doesn't for me.
    1. S35vn
    2. M390
    3. D2 (if you can get an edge, it will hold it well)
    4. 1095
    5. 14c28n

    A few that I've yet to really form an opinion of:
    Elmax: a few of my ZTs are Elmax and seem to hold up well, but I do find it dulls rather quickly compared to my s35vn and M390 folders.
    Vanadis 4 Extra: I have one knife in this steel (ZT0180) and have not gotten any field time with it (yet)
    Niolox SB-1: My HEST is SB-1 steel, and it still has the factory edge. It seems like a combination of s30/s35 grain with D2 toughness and better edge retenion.
     
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  15. dhunley1

    dhunley1 Member

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    I'm no steel guru, but I really like Rowen 1095 and Spydercos S35VN. They both hold their edge long enough, are tough enough for my needs, and they're easy to keep sharp. For light duty tasks, I also like the steel that Victorinox uses. It doesn't hold an edge very well, but it's easy to maintain and takes a razor sharp edge.
     
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  16. Stewart

    Stewart Member

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    I like Elmax for stainless. I have a custom hunting knife in it at 60-61 with cyro and it is better than anying I have tried . It ****s on my sebenza in every way. Love simple carbon steels for woodwork and 3v is currently under observation and doing really well.
     
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  17. Stewart

    Stewart Member

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    Interesting that you find elmax to be worse than s35vn as I have experienced the oposite. Whats the Rc on your Zt? Im starting to think that both steels are medocre under 60rc.
     
  18. ManOfSteel

    ManOfSteel Member

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    I'm not a fan of either when soft. S35VN under 60 (like on my starbenza) doesn't hold an edge long enough. I use diamond stones so I don't worry about how hard something is to sharpen for the most part. I can get a real nasty edge on D2 with a little work too. It's a great cutting steel and makes for a good skinner when done right but not a tough steel like 3V.
     
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  19. Donkey

    Donkey Member

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    80crv2,sandvik,o1 and a2 my faves
     
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  20. Stewart

    Stewart Member

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    Hey Kyle,

    I have the same experience with Reeve S35vn. The more knives in different steels that pass tbrough my hand the more I realize that optimal heat treat is more important than the steel type itself. A recent example is A barkriver hunting knife I had in 3v under 60rc and it was average. I had a maker here in NZ make me a knife in 3v at 60-61 and it holds a thin edge really well and doesnt chip or roll on wood and bone. While it wont hold an edge as long as its elmax brother its definatly tougher. Keep in mind these are hunting knives with edges ground at 12 degrees per side and designed for a specific task.
     
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