Etching and polishing 1095

Discussion in 'DIY (Do It Yourself)' started by Drew RedBear, Dec 9, 2021.

  1. Drew RedBear

    Drew RedBear Member

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    I wrote this a while back in the ESEE fb group and thought I'd share here in case it may help someone.

    There are multiple ways but this is how I do it, plus how to's on stripping and sanding.

    Needed items:

    1. Flat head screwdriver or similar tool.(I've recently switched to using a dremel and sanding drum)
    2. Car battery charger. I use the Schumacher $30 one from Walmart.
    3. Qtips
    4. Sandpaper grits from 320 to 3000.
    5. Gun blue
    6. Torx bit T15 or T20
    7. Warm to hot salt water. (I use approx 8oz of water and 4 tablespoons of regular table salt.
    8. Paint stripper, jasco brand
    9. Fan or open area
    10. Paper towels or clean rags
    11. Face mask of some sorts
    12. Container large enough for knife and a little extra room
    13. Metal wire
    14. Metal paint scraper
    15. Protective gloves
    16. Regular water (for sanding)

    Etching:
    Be in an open room with a fan on the knife (it'll emit smoke and you don't want to breath it in) or outside is good also.
    Remove the scales using either a T15 or a T20 torx bit (it depends on how new the knife is). Now remove about 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch of the coating from the scales side using a flat head screwdriver (again, or similar tool) so bare metal shows.
    Have your salt water ready and stirred well so it's desolved. Put a Qtip in the black clamp leaving about 1/4" of the tip out and on an angle. Clamp the right clamp to the knife on the bare metal. Be careful to not touch or come close to the black clamp, at all times. Plug in the charger and I'd wait about 5 minutes before turning it on, just for the initial use. After you turn it on (it'll read bad on the charger but that's fine and normal) dip the Qtip in the salt water and tap once lightly, you don't want too much water so it drips or runs down. Touch it to the logos and lightly press down and move it slowly along. The Qtip will start to turn black and that is normal as well, as will the logos on the knife, and make sure the water doesn't dry up on the knife. After each pass wipe clean with a rag or paper towel. You'll be able to see how deep it is and continue until your desired depth. After you're done, wash the knife with soap and water to remove any gunk left on it and completely dry right away.

    Stripping: (outdoor is best for this)

    Get a container large enough to fit the knife. Use the metal wire to hold the knife, lanyard hole works best. Put on face mask and gloves! Follow the directions on your choice of paint remover, I usually double the time they say though. The coating should just come off, if not you can try using the scraper to remove it. If it's not coming off clean with that, spray again and wait double the time again. After all the coating is off, rinse the knife in hot water and completely dry off right away again.

    Bluing:

    Use a Qtip to apply blue to logos and under scale areas. Gloves are advised here also. Wait about a minute after applying and rinse in cold water (or follow directions of product). Dry the knife again.

    Sanding:

    You can start with a 400 grit as it's less abrasive but I start with 320 to remove the excess bluing from the knife. The 400 will buy it takes longer.
    Start sanding one side long ways, not very hard but enough to remove the film and blue. I've never counted strokes but you should be able to tell by looks. After that you'll sand height wise but, very, very lightly. You want to remove the scratches but not gauge the metal. That only requires one or two passes. Then sand again length wise until the vertical scratches are gone. Be sure not to go to hard either.
    Using the same grit, you're going to wet sand using the same exact procedure as the dry. Do this through the 600 grit. Starting with the 800 you can press firm when wet sanding and from there on with dry and wet. But.. Never press hard in the vertical sand, always extremely light.
    Do that until you're done with the 3000 grit. FYI there will still be scratches in the metal, you'll be able to see them on certain angles but the point is to get a mirror polish where you can see yourself well.

    Last :
    Put the scales on with or without the screws, but what you want to do is use the 3000 grit, folded flat and lightly use the folded edge to scar the top of where the scales go and the bottom. The bottom is a little more difficult, depending on the knife, but it can be done.
    Back to bluing, use a Qtip, or I use a detail paint brush, and blue under the scales. The lines should make sense now. If you do accidentally get blue where you polished, just use the 3000 grit and it should remove it.

    If you have any more questions just let me know.
     
  2. T.A.

    T.A. Member

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    This may not be the place for this but I’ll ask anyways.
    I applied some ferric chloride to my Junglas and only half the logo is changing colors. There is zero oil on it and I’m rather confused about why this is happening. I rinsed it off after about 5 minutes
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Drew RedBear

    Drew RedBear Member

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    I've never used acid but I know it takes forever to etch. Don't think I've ever seen that before either with other's etchings with acid. Try cleaning it with dish soap and make sure it's completely dry then try again. Let it sit for a few hours before checking it again also.
     
  4. mmbackpacker

    mmbackpacker Member

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    I have etched numerous ESEEs with the acid. Takes time- I make a little dam with carmex that comes in the tubes- make a circle or a smile shape to contain the acid. The acid should turn dark brown. I go in 45 minute increments.

     
  5. T.A.

    T.A. Member

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    have you ever had one where part of the logo doesn’t etch? Especially with such a well defined line between etched and bare metal?
     
  6. mmbackpacker

    mmbackpacker Member

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    I think you need to give it more than 5 minutes. Could be how the covering is applied.

     
  7. KnOeFz

    KnOeFz Member

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    Here's some pic of electro etching my BK-9 today
    Might help with the excellent text in the start post here.
    The + is clamped on the edge, the - is covered with a cotton pad drenched in salted water.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2022
  8. KnOeFz

    KnOeFz Member

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    And the same for mu BK-16

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Strigidae and Drew RedBear like this.
  9. Jtallen83

    Jtallen83 Member

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    If you add half water to ferric chloride it speeds it way up, creates hydrochloric acid. Works about three times as fast or more. I combine that with the electricity and it goes real quick and even.
     

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