Basic two-side aluminum oxide, Arkansas stone, and a strop. I used to use DMTs, but I've moved to easier to sharpen steels since.
Also I have a set of Norton water stones, 220/1000 and 4000/8000 grit, but I only use them for razors.
I mostly use the Sharpmaker these days for touching up edges. I have various water stones and ceramic bench stones for repairing edges.
@ILikeKnives -- Here is a link to DMT's website for bench stones, as these are described. https://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/bench-stones/diamond-whetstone/ I have the 8" stones in hardwood cases. (Size is 8" x 2 5/8" x 1 1/4"). You pay for the case. I sourced mine locally at GPKnives in Troy, IL and paid around $80 for them. GP has a good website for browsing. http://www.gpknives.com/ If you don't get the hardwood case you can pick up a 6" version for around $40. I like the larger size nested into the base. It raises the work surface of the stone and gives me room for my hand along the side of the stone as I move the knife. I own the Blue 325 coarse grit, Red 600 fine grit, and Green 1200 extra fine grit. If I was going to start with just one it would definitely be the red. (Most members on here would tell you the same. Unless something has gone terribly wrong with your blade, or you want to reprofile the blade geometry, you will seldom use the coarse Blue. Likewise, I rarely feel the need to finish with the extra fine Green, unless maybe to take some grind marks out of a Scandi blade.) Then I finish with my black and or green strop surface.
